Thursday, January 28, 2010

Bombardment!

Okay so I'm taking a French history class and a "Paris Walks" class while I'm here, and, as part of the coursework for each, we have to keep a log of the walks and places of historical significance that we visit. So I could either try keeping two physical journals and paste things like receipts and bits of leaves into them, or I could combine the two into one blog. Sooo now I have another blog. Now, in addition to this blog and the pictures I post on facebook, you should have the complete picture of what I'm up to here. Sorry, I know it's a lot of me, in a lot of different places. I'm posting a link to the new blog here--it's focused on specific sites that I'm required to visit, and I'm graded on it, so if you've always wished that I'd grow up and appreciate the finer things, this is where I have to at least fake it.

Paris Walks Blog



Sunday, January 24, 2010

En français, s'il vous plait!

I'm in way over my head here! I have the most French experience among the students in my program and so find myself asking for ten different sets of directions, ordering hot chocolates en masse, and translating for my pew-mates during church. And, while most customer service employees and many waiters, cab drivers, and other sales-oriented people in Paris speak at least a little English, I'm beginning to learn that English, to the French (like French, to Americans), is a bit of a loose term.

After braving the beggars of the commuter train and the moving sidewalks of the ever-terrifying Châtelet station, Emily and I found our way to the institute building and then stopped at the nearest café for lunch. It was our first experience in a sit-down restaurant here, so we were delighted when most of the menu items included an English description. One of the items, however, le pâté terrine, had as its English translation "pot of countryside." Puzzled, I asked the waiter to describe the dish. More puzzled, he pointed to the description as though it were self-explanatory and said, very slowly, "paaahhhht ov' countreee siiiide." Oh well.

Four of us went out to eat at a tiny little pub in Chatou, near the train station in Croissy. We took our time deciphering the menu, ordered with some difficulty, ate, talked, finished, and wanted to see about getting the check. I managed to flag down the waiter, and Bart tried his hand at asking for the check. Bart, Dan, and Emily in turn spat out the request, and then, realizing that they weren't being understood, began all at once to pronounce the word "check" in various accents and increasing volume. The waiter listened patiently for a while, then put his hands up to cut them off and gestured to me. Forgetting the word for check myself, I said "Je pense que nous sommes prêts à payer (I think we're ready to pay)." He said "Ah," and returned with the check, just like that.

Mme took great care (and like 20 minutes) in showing us how to use the house alarm. You press a button when leaving, a loud buzzing occurs, and then you have 30 seconds to exit the house. After those 30 seconds, any movement from within the house will trigger the alarm, which in turn triggers a call from a security company, to whom you have to provide a password. A couple of days ago, Emily and I were still in bed at 2 in the afternoon, suffering from jet lag, when I awoke to the loud buzzing sound signalling the beginning of the 30 second exit period. Still half-asleep, it took me the full 30 seconds to realize that Mme (or M.) hadn't realized that we were still in the house, and had left and activated the alarm. I stayed as still as humanly possible for a minute or so, and then, figuring I would have to pee some time, jumped out of bed and ran downstairs to the keypad. The alarm started blaring, and I reached the pad and entered the code just as the phone started ringing. The moment of truth--could I really pass for a French homeowner, or would my accent give me away?
"Allo, nous vous appelons de la societé de sécurité. Est-ce que vous avez déclenché l'alarme?"
"Oui (in my most casual French accent)."
"Et est-ce que vous avez entré le code?"
"Oui."
"Et est-ce que vous avez le mot de sécurité?"
"Oui: Skanes-Titus (skah-ness-tee-toose)."
"Merci, au revoir."
"Au revoir."

WHEW! Well, the man from the security agency doesn't know it, but he gave me the confidence I need to become a professional American cat burglar in French homes across the nation. Or at least the neighborhood.

Saturday, January 23, 2010

L'acceuil

Hello all! I know that I'm going to be bad about emailing while I'm here (so much to see, so little time) so I took Dad's advice and set up one of these consarned blogs.

So I arrived here in Croissy-sur-Seine on Wednesday, January 20th. It's a small town of about 2000, just about a half hour train ride* from the center of Paris, where classes begin on Monday. My roommate, Emily, and I live with M. and Mme Grandmaison in a relatively new house in an extremely old neighborhood. Everything here is picturesque--the streets are cobbled, the fences are wrought iron, and the open air market is...open. Well, on Saturdays, anyway.
*In French, r's are often pronounced as w's, and I first typed "wide" instead of "ride."

Notre maison.


Kind of like a miniature Longbourn, huh? Croissy is full of 'em.

Our first night in town, Mme Grandmaison drove us around and showed us some of Croissy's key landmarks. We passed the tradional outdoor market, a 13th century stone church, and an apartment where Napoleon courted his future wife, Josephine, then an immigrant from the West Indies. We also drove along the Seine, which was a popular subject for painting among the various famous impressionists who came to Croissy for a bit of country air. Mme took today to pack us into her Renault Twingo and shuttle us around the neighboring towns (Marly le Roi, Louveciennes, etc.) for some miniature history lessons.



This is a house in one of the neighboring villages where a mistress of Louis XIV lived and raised her illegitimate children by him until the revolution, when she, along with many nobles and their friends, was beheaded.


The front view of Marly le Roi Château. After building the palace at Versailles, Louis XIV decided that it was too large for everyday use and commissioned a smaller, less showy castle in Marly. These statues, called Les Chevaux de Marly, are actually quite famous--there are reproductions of them in the Louvre.


This is the view from the estate's hill. There is a gorgeous forest surrounding a large park, and these two ponds sit right in the middle. The large rectangular patch of dirt you see between the two ponds is the site of the former château. It, too, was destroyed during the Revolution.


La Maison Fournaise, a restaurant right here in Croissy that was the subject of this, one of Renoir's masterpieces:



Here is the same balcony today--note the blue railing and striped canopy.


Whew! That was only Croissy, and only part of it! I've got my work cut out for me...